ProGuitarShop

String & Fretboard Care

July 4, 2013

By PGS Fitz

 

We all know the fun part of playing guitar is: PLAYING GUITAR! Less fun for many of us is the proper maintenance required to keep our instruments in tip top shape (not saying that there aren’t plenty of tech nerds in the herd, just that a lot of us could stand to implement some best practices when it comes to our instruments!). This month we’re taking a look at your fretboard and your strings—there are a few easy strategies you can implement that will keep your instrument playing great and reduce overall wear & tear.

 

At the outset, let’s talk about storage. Where do you store your guitar when you aren’t playing it? In its case? Hanging on the wall? Propped up in the corner where the sun hits it every afternoon?! The more your instrument is exposed to air and sun, the faster the guitar’s condition can degrade. In an ideal world, the guitar would go back into its case to keep it better protected from air, sun, and moisture. Most guitars are fine under normal home conditions, but extra care should be taken if you live in an exceptionally dry or exceptionally moist environment. A good rule of thumb is that if you require special care for your temperature/humidity, your guitar probably does too. For higher-end instruments, temperature and/or humidity controlled environments/cases may be in order to protect your instrument. A digital hygrometer can be found online for between $15-$30 and can help you identify any potential humidity issues for your instrument. When there is more moisture in the air, wood can swell. When there is a lack of moisture in the air, wood can dry out and crack. Believe me, there’s nothing sadder than a cracked fretboard. Except maybe a broken neck.

 

Your fretboard is really about the most important part of your guitar, in my opinion, and you always want to make sure to take great care of it. Most maple fretboards have a finish on them and do not require as much intense care as other fretboards—a finished maple fretboard is easily wiped down and does not require the same conditioning that unfinished fretboards do. The lacquer acts as a barrier against dirt and moisture.

For unfinished fretboards, you’ll need to consider both keeping the fretboard clean as well as keeping it moisturized. Wiping the fretboard down after playing is key—the oils from your skin and the sweat your hands generate while you’re playing that solo with the 256th notes will linger on the fretboard, eventually seeping into the wood. If buildup accumulates over time, you may need to use a flat, straight item like a credit card or, if you are very careful, a blade to gently scrape away the buildup—taking care not to damage the fretboard itself. The name of the game here is prevention—by keeping your fretboard as clean as possible with daily maintenance, you should be able to avoid long term problems with dirt and grime. Commercial cleaners can help you maintain your fretboard, but beware of extra chemicals in these products; some cleaners include silicon or heavy waxes, which can actually damage or further gunk up the very guitar you’re trying to keep clean. Look for cleaners with no silicon, no wax, and as few chemicals overall as possible.

I once purchased a guitar from an online retailer in Phoenix. When I received the guitar, the rosewood fretboard was so dried out, I had to condition it once a month for a few months until the guitar acclimated to the Pacific Northwest. It’s still not as dialed in as I’d like it to be after drying out in the Southwest desert, but I was able to rehab it somewhat. Ebony and rosewood fingerboards will need to be conditioned or oiled from time to time—at least once a year, more if you live in a climate that requires it. Lemon oil is often considered a great conditioner for these fretboards, but again—beware the ingredient list. There’s great speculation amongst players over what is the best conditioner for fretboards—you want to find a substance with the least amount of additives. As always, your mileage and your guitar’s mileage may vary—use any fretboard conditioner judiciously until you know it’s the right match for you and your fretboard.

 

Funny enough, your hands are one of the most dangerous offenders to the life of your guitar strings. Oils and sweat from our hands collect on the strings and can increase the oxidation of your strings—making your strings sound dead and lifeless sooner, not to mention making them prone to breakage. Dirty, coarse strings can also cause damage to frets themselves. A great habit to form is to keep a soft, dry cloth handy to wipe down your strings, neck, body, and bridge hardware after every playing session. Doing so will help extend string life and keep your guitar from accumulating nasty, mungy buildup. Several manufacturers make special string cleaning products which can be used after every playing session or every few sessions and which can greatly extend the life of your strings. There’s no hard and fast rule about when to change your strings; as soon as they feel flat or sound dead, change them. You might find that your strings last a lot longer once you start paying attention to keeping them clean.

 

The critical component here is to shift your mindset into instituting a couple easy hacks to your playing routine that will help you prevent long term damage to your fretboard and that will prolong the life of your strings. That means more time for rocking, shredding, writing, and uh, maybe even shopping for your next guitar. If you’ve got tips/tricks for fretboard and/or string care, let’s hear ‘em!

Comments

  1. Bobkat says:

    Just last week I decided to buy polish for my instruments, the chap in the store recommended lemon oil. Cleaned a 60s bobkat and a 70s jazz bass, the filth that came of the fret board was amazing.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 2:06 am
  2. Igor says:

    hey Fitz! it would be great if you could include like a short list of products when talking about wood care.. for example I use linseed oil and it always turned out great, no chemicals or silicone/alcohole etc.. most people have heard about lemon oil but rarely know what it actually is, so while it’s great someone’s actually taking the time to write some basic stuff for a lot of people who may never have even thought their guitar needed maintenance, it would be really helpful if you’d also provide some info on, say, 2-3 products (the effect the stuff has on wood, how to apply it..) or someone will surely drench the fretboard in oil and kill it :) a very simple way to remove everyday buildup of dirt is simply putting it close to your mouth and breathing warm air on it - it provides just the right amount of condensation to wipe the dirt away with a clean, dry cloth.. the credit card is one of the all-time favorites too!

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 2:17 am
  3. Luc Robillard says:

    Hello, i use mineral oil on all my fret boards that are rosewood or any unfinished fret board.I found this type of natural oil to be the best and safest. Every time or every other time i change my strings i do this. I have roughly 30 guitars with unfinished boards.And everyone them looks brand new.Also the mineral oil protects from getting dirty.MMM don’t know why but it seems too..Also for body cleaning and protection.The best product i have found over my 42 years of playing is Carnuba wax and cleaner.You can find this were they sell automotive cleaners..Another trick for cleaning the dirtiest guitar is a 3 in 1 oil.Funny but it will take built up grime.Someone told me that Martin guitars do this.MM don’t know if thats true but i know it works.I had a black early 80’s jackson that had dirt and grime built up from touring over the years.I finally tried the 3 in 1 oil and all i can say is that,it worked.Well thanks for your time. Luke

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 2:29 am
  4. mark says:

    nothing sounds as good as a fresh set of strings. love it. i always wipe my strings down and keep my board as gunk-free as i can. the other guitar player in my band had a les paul studio that he NEVER wiped down and he sweat really heavily when he played. the next show he’d pull his guitar out of the case and the strings would be rusted and gross. a little wipe down goes a long way!

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 2:29 am
  5. Roger Gilbert says:

    I use a toothpick to scrape the crud; Windex to clean and linseed oil (very lightly) to condition.  Being doing it for over 50 years to some guitars and they’re still in fine condition.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 2:29 am
  6. Rian says:

    gorgamyte….good stuff….I use it about every other string change, and then use lemon oil the other half of the time.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 2:31 am
  7. John L says:

    You have to be careful. A lot of people slap on Lemon Oil each time they change the strings and then have to change their frets. There is a reason that the most well known brand of replacement frets pushes lemon oil like crazy. Only Martin explicitly tell you not to use Lemon Oil and why.
    All of us could learn a lot from classical string players, the people who look after 100 year old + instruments night after night.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 2:35 am
  8. Rian says:

    Good to know John L.  Does Lemon Oil eat frets….I guess I haven’t had a problem…Thanks.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 2:37 am
  9. Terry says:

    I now use only Dr. Henderson’s Bore Doctor (no affiliation).  Why use a petroleum based oil on wood?  It makes no sense.  Henderson’s oil was originally developed for the fife and clarinet.  It is the only “oil” of which I am aware that contains no petroleum.  Do a Google search to find the site.  After reading about it, you’ll probably want to try it ...I did, and I’m glad I did.  This stuff brought some very old fretboards back to life for me and keeps my newer ones as they should be.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 2:50 am
  10. Fino Roverato says:

    Dan Erlewine says Pure Raw Linseed oil for rosewood.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 3:03 am
  11. Brian says:

    Great article on a commonly overlooked bit of maintenance.  I have been using Guitar Honey for 25 years on my 67 Gibson and it has kept the fretboard in mint condition.  I’m sure there are other products that work also, but once I found this worked so well I stuck with it.  The wipe down can seem obsessive to some (“guitars are meant to be played”, etc…), but the two critical spots that I hit are the bridge corner, which will get eaten fast by palm sweat, and the top edge of the body where the inside of your forearm and “elbow crotch” touch.  Rule of thumb - if your metal parts are turning green - it’s time to clean.  Cheers…

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 3:08 am
  12. Luc Robillard says:

    I’m going to look into the bore Doctor.As for applying mineral oil.I do a very light coat once it’s been done the first time.I don’t use lemon oil.If a neck is real grimed up.I scrap of the dirt and level off the board with a razor blade.I’m not saying do this.I’m just saying i do.But then again i am a master wood worker and if i break it i can fix it.Also you can buy mineral oil at any drug store for 8 bucks.And that would be a life time supply lol.Remember the old saying .If it;s not broken don’t fix it.These suggestions are only my opinion.Pretty cool site

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 3:21 am
  13. daniel says:

    Here’s a little nugget: Wash your hands before you play and often, during rehearsal breaks, set breaks, etc.  Prevention is key.  +1 on Lemon oil.  I use Orange Glow on my rosewood because it also cleans, But keep it away from from lacquer and nitro finishes!

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 3:31 am
  14. Bluesman5364our says:

    Fitz, ““The Corner” has quickly become one of my favorite information sites to gather basic knowledge from since I am not a highly experienced luthier or even a guitarist.  That all said, I to agree that it would be nice to see you list a product or two that we could consider using and how to use it.  The D’Adarrio String company also provided a good video from time to time showing the care and maintenance of a guitar.  Thank you for your website and the information you take the time to post.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 3:59 am
  15. william says:

    +1 on Guitar Honey.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 4:12 am
  16. Bluesman5364 says:

    Oops, meant to say Andy’s Corner , not The Corner.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 4:17 am
  17. ESE says:

    I clean my guitars using Sunlight soap dissolved in (luke)warm water, that I apply with cotton swabs, which I also scrub with. They can also get into corners very well. The soap gets rid of the dirt while not drying out the wood too much. Remove any soap remnants using a moist cloth, let the wood dry, and apply caster oil.

    Copper-wound strings can also regain much of their original tone & shine by cleaning it with copper polish. My strings last twice as long that way :-)

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 4:26 am
  18. Jt says:

    Anyone got comments on using DR. DUCK’ s, Ducks axe wax?

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 4:32 am
  19. mjp says:

    Don’t forget that “lemon oil” is just mineral oil with scent added. Light mineral oil is cheaper and additive-free.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 4:42 am
  20. John Kowalski says:

    My dad had been playing since the ‘40s and me since the ‘60s. I never really researched what was best but my dad told me to use mineral oil at a very early age. Been using it since the ‘70s and have never had any problems. A guitar player friend of mine told me to use linseed oil as mineral oil was kind of heavy but I never tried it. Still use mineral oil….. anybody else..?? Or has anyone had adverse affects with it.??

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 4:55 am
  21. Daniel Lang says:

    but Scott Groves (youtuber) in somewhere/nowhere down south says you never need to clean your fret board !  lol   F’ m I use PRS fret board treatment or boiled linseed oil myself.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 4:59 am
  22. Rian says:

    Boiled Linseed oil?  That’s awesome….

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 5:03 am
  23. Cliff Lang says:

    Keep a clean piece of towel rag in your case and wipe down your instrument as described here every time you take it from the case and every time you put it back. Elementary.
    As for string care, here’s a tip I got from Guitar Player Magazine over ten years ago: there’s a liquid teflon called Break Free that’s sold in gun shops. Its main use is for cleaning and lubricating firearms. When I open a new set of bronze acoustic strings, of course the first thing I do is kink the headstock end on the wound strings so the winding won’t slip and make the string sound like it’s on a sitar. I squirt some Break Free on a small piece of clean rag and wipe each string up and down a couple of times with it, then hang the strings overnight in a warm dry place or put them out in the sun for an hour or so. Finally I wipe them down again with another clean dry rag before I put them on my guitar. The teflon does a couple of things- it repels dirt, oil and shmutz from your hands, and slows oxidation. As a result the strings stay bright, retaining their “new strings!” sound longer. I’ve been doing this for over ten years and haven’t seen any discoloration of my fretboards.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 5:20 am
  24. Dr. David Secord says:

    Lemon oil is one of the worst things you can put on bare wood, as it is not natural. Every type of lemon oil I’ve ever seen is made from petrolatum and is scented with a lemon chemical. There is nothing natural in it. If you use it, you’ll note that the wood swells and becomes rough. The only thing I recommend is almond oil, which is inert and natural enough that you can use it on your salad in place of olive oil if you’d like.

    The only thing I would recommend to clean a bare wood surface is Murphy’s Wood Oil Soap mixed with a little warm water and applied with 0000 steel wool or (better) brass wool. You’ll be stunned at how much gunk came off your fret board. Clean with the grain of the wood and wipe off. The wood (once dry) will look dull and horrible. That’s what clean, untreated wood looks like. Once you wipe it down with a conservative amount of almond oil, let it sit for a minute and wipe off the excess, you’ll think it’s a new guitar. The steel wool (or brass wool if you can find it) will also polish the fret wires like new. This is good to use to condition your bridge as well (not mentioned in the article).

    Linseed oil should be boiled and not raw. Even then, it can dry sticky and attract gunk.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 5:32 am
  25. Steve Dallman says:

    I use pure paste wax. I have since 1972 and have never had a problem. No cleaners, no abrasives. The wax I use used to be called “Johnson Fine Wax for Cars and Floors” but is now a Simonize product…same type of can, same wax. Clean the board, put on the wax, buff it off with a soft cloth, repeat. I add another coat every time I change strings. I love it and have used it on all my guitars and basses for 40+ years.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 5:43 am
  26. JIM DONOVAN says:

    what kind of crap is this? Generalities. Nothing more.

    I’ve read specific warnings about never to use lemon oil on an ebony fret, and now I own one for the 1st time. if you dont do any research at all, stay away from writing anything.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 5:46 am
  27. Rupe says:

    Avoid anything with petroleum distillates, which includes most commercially available fretboard conditioners.  I’ve tried a lot of different things and nothing works as well as Fret Doctor…simply the best stuff you can buy.  I also like Gorgomyte for polishing the frets.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 6:06 am
  28. joe says:

    Yes, this is a very general, vague article. Some specifics would be nice. In that regard, for what it’s worth, here’s what works for me.

    I change strings on all my guitars every 3-4 weeks. I use an old cloth diaper, and scrub the rosewood board with plain mineral oil, or Gibson’s “fretboard cleaner”, which is overpriced mineral oil with lemon scent added. Oil is used sparingly, just dribble a few drops on the board and scrub it dry, so as not to create build up, and so the frets don’t become unseated.

    Every 2-3 string changes I’ll first use Gorgomyte, which seems to be an oil-impregnated cloth, with very fine abrasive. Polishes frets wonderfully, and removes a lot of oxidation. I follow up with the plain mineral oil, not because the board needs more oil, but to get all the black gunk generated by the Gorgo off the board. All my frets and rosewood/ebony boards look like new.

    I like the consistency and mild scent of Gibson’s Luthier’s Choice guitar polish, so I use that on the body, every time I change strings. Not too much—don’t want a lot of build up. For more serious cleaning, I use naptha first. Both of these are safe to use on any finish, including lacquer. In fact, naptha is safe for every guitar surface: metals, woods, finishes.

    I use Gerlitz No. 1 guitar wax (carnauba wax paste, with NO silicone added—watch out for some of the auto products). Occasionally I use this on the body to make a deep mirror shine. Also, I use this on the back of new lacquer necks that feel sticky. Same for any gloss neck on a humid day.

    Finally, once in a while I use 3M Ultrafine machine polish to remove fine finish scratches. I’ve heard Meguiar’s Cut & Polish cream is even better for this.

    YMMV.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 6:25 am
  29. Daniel Lang says:

    LOL…. holy shining car Batman…Paste Wax on a fingerboard?  I never even heard of that before, but hey, if it works for you I say wax on wax off !

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 6:30 am
  30. Steve Dallman says:

    The wax was recommended by Danelectro-Ampeg when I contacted them about care of my lucite guitar. It was a great recommendation.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 6:56 am
  31. Steve says:

    I’ve always used red oil, as was recommended to me 40 years ago. Seems to work well.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 7:22 am
  32. Lou says:

    Ive been using guitar honey on all my guitars for over 20 years keeps the fretboard clean conditioned Guitar Honey is the Shizznit.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 7:44 am
  33. Ed says:

    Is it safe to remove all the strings from the guitar in order to clean the fretboard? I’ve heard this isn’t a good idea.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 7:52 am
  34. david nouis says:

    ed is correct removing all strings at once causes neck relief issues, but if your gonna do a setup anyways go for it

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 8:13 am
  35. Graeme says:

    No one has mentioned the USA product called ghs “Fast Fret” it has white mineral oil in it and I suspect a wax mix. Comes with a rubbing stick and wiping cloth in a handy sized plastic tube. One problem is the fluff off the cloth. Use before and after playing…..any comments?

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 9:07 am
  36. DBM says:

    Echoes Live at Pompeii part 1 si the best

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 9:08 am
  37. Barney Fife says:

    I have a lot of guitars and basses, and in my “day job” I’m a fireman. A word of caution:Linseed oil is great to use on bare wood, but remember it is actually HIGHLY flammable, almost like gasoline. When you put it on make sure you do it in a well ventilated area without ignition sources.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 9:24 am
  38. Pez-A-Mystic says:

    Any of the K-Y products are great and leave no sticky residue….......Oh wait, this is about guitars.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 9:45 am
  39. kd says:

    Lighter Fluid or better a Damp Cloth

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 9:59 am
  40. Matt says:

    Two words. Fret doctor.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 10:57 am
  41. david nouis says:

    believe it or not semen works well for cleaning and polishing fretboards

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 11:03 am
  42. Atomic says:

    I keep microfiber cloths in all my guitar cases.  I wipe down the guitar after each use.  The microfiber really does a nice job removing finger oils.  I also wash my hands before I play.  Huge difference in keeping the guitars clean and strings fresh.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 11:05 am
  43. Ken says:

    Your Phoenix guitar was probably kept in a home with a swamp cooler. Because humidity is lower for most of the year in the desert climate, coolers that draw in air through a dampened pad that cools the air through evaporation are used in many of the older homes here. At one time there was a manufacturer that made a two stage evaporative cooler that really chilled down the house. Unfortunately the humidity inside the house can be very high when the sun is down and the ambient air is cooler. But when the outside temp rises things dry out and it’s the constant change in humidity the destroys wood, and just about anything else.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 11:08 am
  44. Mister Vertigo Musik says:

    Fitz,
    Is there a brand of conditioner you would personally recommend?

    Cheers,
    -MV

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 11:24 am
  45. Ken says:

    My local shop uses Gibson’s guitar polish. They use it on the body and fretboard. My old roommate played bass, and use used rubbing alcohol on his strings. Somebody else may have better recommendations and I’m open to suggestions, but I hope this helps.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 11:51 am
  46. Ken says:

    Maybe someone could answer a question for me. I left one of my guitars in the case for a while. I cleaned it before putting it away, being careful to get all the fingerprints when I set in the case. My son must have gotten curious and opened the case to mess with it. Now there’ are spots on it where the finish looks etched away. Any suggestions to fix it?

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 11:59 am
  47. Donnie says:

    As far as alcohol on strings, remember that isopropyl is mostly water. As for lemon, orange, citrus anything, especially if the product says ‘natural’, don’t use it. It’s a mild acid.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 12:31 pm
  48. Peter Mahoney says:

    I retired down to Panama, where 85% to 95% humidity is the norm for 9 months out of the year. I asked a bandmate what he was spraying on the cloth that he used to wipe down his strings after each practice, and he told me, “WD-40”. I went home in shock, but upon checking out the company website I found that their list of 2000+ uses submitted by users included several for guitar. Guitar players listed not just protecting pick-ups, tuning gears and case hinges or gig bag zippers but applying it to strings, frets and fretboards as well. It is, after all, basically refined mineral oils.

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 4:37 pm
  49. Tbone Demman says:

    I have been told by the folks from PRS by over doing this process can be and usually is very harmful to your guitars….the reason being is that the oils or lubricants can loosen the glue that holds your frets….thus what happens is the oil gets into a tiny openings where its not soaked or sponged up from sitting to long…..thus eventually eroding and loosing the glue…...moral of the story…..don’t over do it….and don’t let it sit forever before wiping it off….make sense?

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 5:36 pm
  50. Reginald Manning says:

    Been playing for about thirty yrs.Have some mighty fine axes,and cheap ones too.I work in a hospital ,so before I even pick up one of my gits ,I make sure my hands are clean and dry.Afterwards I do like lemon oil lightly.but here,s a tip that works for me.Rather than throw away my old cotton tees and draws that have gotten so nice and soft,that they fall apart.i put them thru the rinse cycle,dry them out and use them as got rags. Believe me,it works!

    posted on July 5, 2013 at 6:31 pm
  51. Scott Hodges says:

    Linseed oil will create a varnish like surface which makes other oils almost impenetrable.  Bore oil or other natural oils are best.  Almond oil for example or commercial products like Dr. Duck or Fret Doctor are best.

    posted on July 6, 2013 at 12:09 am
  52. Mr Prytania says:

    Clean your hands before you play.  I also keep a little bottle of anti bacterial stuff that I wipe my hands with.  Removes the oils that would stick my hands to the instrument.

    posted on July 6, 2013 at 12:46 am
  53. KidMag says:

    Tbone Demman is exactly correct.  Don’t over do it.  BTW the BEST for rehabbing dry fretboards is Bore oil, period.  I’ve tied everything.  Apply with fingers, if it sits on top of the fretboard, remove with a cotton cloth.  If it soaks in, apply a little more, repeat.  Your final step should always be to wipe the entire board with cotton cloth (I use old white undershirts) trying to remove as much oil as possible.  I have bought a lot of used guitars on ebay, and they arrive in all kinds of shape (some people have no idea how to care for a guitar).  Bore Oil has never failed to revive a dead fretboard.  Read this http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm then go buy regular Bore Oil (Fret Doctor is just Bore Oil) for 1/4th the price.

    posted on July 6, 2013 at 12:56 am
  54. Guitardog13 says:

    Didn’t see it mentioned, but before each gig, I use a cotton makeup remover pads (stolen from my wife) and rubbing alcohol to clean the strings.  Just dampen the pad, wrap it around the string and rub back and forth a few times on each string.  I then top off with a little Fast Fret.

    posted on July 6, 2013 at 1:19 am
  55. Rupe says:

    KidMag…why would anybody buy 10 ml of Bore oil for $5 when you can get 60 ml of Fret Doctor for $20?  1/4 the price is no bargain when you get 1/6 the amount.

    posted on July 6, 2013 at 3:02 am
  56. tom says:

    Has anyone tried Olive Oil?

    posted on July 6, 2013 at 4:14 am
  57. Steve Dallman says:

    Olive oil? Yea, it tastes great and is good for you…and it will get rancid and sticky over time as will any food oil.

    posted on July 6, 2013 at 5:10 am
  58. Ken says:

    When I was I grade school we I made a cutting board for my mother. It was raised off the table and angled with back stops so you could slide the food into a bowel while prepping a meal. My shop teacher had us finish them with vegetable oil. She’s had it ever since and all she’s ever put on it is vegetable oil.

    posted on July 6, 2013 at 5:21 am
  59. Casey Scott says:

    Wow!  Lot’s of comments here.  Let me just add this: One of the biggest reasons I play a Parker Fly is that there is no maintenance required on the fretboard!  Here’s why:
    A) the Carbon fiber fretboard and wrap on the back of the neck make it extremely stable, and you can go for 8-10 (but probably many more) years w/out having to adjust the trussrod.
    B) the work-hardened stainless steel frets on a Fly will almost never wear out.
    C) the durability and impermeability of a carbon fretboard means all you need to clean it is a microfiber cloth and some warm water.

    ...just sayin.

    posted on July 6, 2013 at 5:34 am
  60. Guido Erfen says:

    (This is referring to acoustic guitar mostly.) I cannot really agree with the idea of keeping the instruments in the case in order to protect them from moisture. If it actually helps moisture-protection it logically means the instrument is not played at all, since all protection is naturally is gone any time the case is opened. (Keeping in cases is good for professionals who pick from a variety of instruments for specific shows, but that’s another story.)

    One or another might be familiar with unhappy stories of “guitars committing suicide in their coffins” with the tops loosing from the bracings beyond repair-possibilities and other horrible things, after not being touched for years. And the story goes “oh it was all the time protected in its case on closet-top in my bedroom.” What ever the actual physical reason for the damage might be ... the true problem with the cases might be found somewhere else.

    An instrument in the case gets quickly out of focus with consequences:
    - It is not played, so do you keep it for? Better give it away to someone who appreciates.
    - No control about damages that maybe slowly evolve.
    - The instrument goes to “hibernation” and picking it up again may mean you have to
      “wake it up” for a certain time until it sounds good again. (My personal experience,
      maybe not everyone’s view.)

    In my view -as long as you don’t live in extreme climate- the best place to put the instrument exactly where you live or where music regularly is played or the stereo runs. And it is a good idea to hang it -freely swinging- on the wall. It will have a similar effect as if the instrument is constantly played and can help to improve sound and definitely will keep you inspired to play.

    posted on July 7, 2013 at 6:11 am
  61. fuzzy says:

    i like a good wipe down with rubbing alcohol and then use a tiny bit of olive oil on the board,rub it in and then wipe most of it right back off without letting it soak in. keeps my necks happy so far.

    posted on July 9, 2013 at 8:57 am
  62. zhangfei says:

    compliment any fashionable outfit, I wondered who in the world would dare to pay such a high price for a basically ugly handbag. More towards reality, genuine designer handBags tend to sell from LV Purses  anything from $1000-00 or more. The Hollywood stars Louis Vuitton Outlet Online  and some more affluent socialites may be able to afford a new designer handbag for every occasion that they attend, but the average person in the street simply can not afford to go out shopping and buying new designer Bags for every social occasion.But, au contraire, my beautiful friend. No two chocolates Michael Kors Wallets  are alike and. <br>little brown paper bags filled with peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. Then the main character observes the people who are “successful” and sees that they are carrying Louis Vuitton  rabbits and not sandwiches. He goes through the rest of his little journey learning how to catch rabbits and – even better – how to attract them so they jump louisvuitton.com  right into his lap.Yeah, it seemed a little silly to me too, which is why I think I liked the book. The author took everyday challenges and turned them into Louis Vuitton Outlet  unrelated set of analogies. PB&J sandwiches in a brown paper bag were <br>Yet, there are times when ambiguity and insecurity arise, especially at the ending of a coaching relationship. When Cheap Christian Louboutin  that happens, make sure you assist your client become a happy, satisfied ex by providing a transitional business coaching package that ends the coaching relationship and fosters independence and successn Louis Vuitton bags  an increasingly chaotic world, many people are turning to Chicago life coaches for guidance and support. Although coaching is a relatively new kind of counseling, it has quickly become main gucci outlet online  stream as more people every day take advantage of the positive. <br>

    posted on July 9, 2013 at 11:11 am
  63. Robert Thomson says:

    http://www.amazon.com/Gerlitz-GEGHO-Guitar-Honey-Fingerboard/dp/B000EEJF4O

    I find all of Gerlitz Guitar Products to be awesome.

    posted on July 9, 2013 at 11:49 pm
  64. K5Davey says:

    Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes String Cleaner works great and extends the life of my strings for months. I Wonder Wipe the strings prior to restringing a guitar and again every week or two. I use Kyser Lemon Oil Fretboard Conditioner twice a year or so. Always clean strings AND frets with a dry soft cloth after playing. I hang 13 electric guitars in my studio, keep the temp fairly constant and blinds closed to prevent sunlight exposure. I also use low UV & IR museum lighting. My instruments stay perfectly set up and in tune and show no signs of premature aging. I keep acoustics in their cases along with a silica gel pack to prevent the tops from bowing during the humid costal SoCal rainy months.

    posted on July 13, 2013 at 9:43 am
  65. Steve Dallman says:

    Besides waxing my fingerboards, I keep my hands clean, wipe my guitars down if it’s hot, and use a little Windex on a soft cloth if cleaning is needed. Gunk does not build up on my fingerboards, and my strings last at least a year, still sounding near new after months. Temps and humidity vary widely in our northern WI home. My main instrument is bass, and through the hot summer, I may have to boil my strings once, but I get well over a year out of my bass strings too, and I like them bright and clangy. Clean hands means clean strings.

    posted on July 13, 2013 at 10:34 am
  66. david nouis says:

    http://youtu.be/F_u5U6bbKo0 is the link to newest aristocrats song off their new album culture clash please watch if you love great musicians

    posted on July 13, 2013 at 12:49 pm
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  71. Rob Pohndorf says:

    Sweaty Hands. I got ‘em. I hate it. It makes you play slower and chews up your strings. Here’s something that has worked for me over the years; Before you play, wash your hands in hot water with dish soap, then really wipe your strings down when you’re done. Some players go so far as to have their doctor prescribe a beta-blocker to dry out their clammy mits. I don’t recommend it, its heart medicine and made me a little too dopey when I tried it.

    posted on September 4, 2013 at 11:00 am
  72. Scott Grove says:

    Daniel Lang, before you quote me, learn to spell my name correctly and secondly, quote me correctly instead of making things up to suit your needs.  Water and a rag is the ticket.  I’ve NEVER said to not clean your fretboard.  So, get your facts straight.  All other stuff is “Snake Oil”.  Anyone ever tried Snake Oil.  lol ANYTHING other than water or spit is a waste of money.  I can’t remember the last time I ever saw it rain any kind of oil from the sky to make a tree happy.

    posted on September 4, 2013 at 11:49 am
  73. Nick E. says:

    Maybe somebody should invent some special guitar gloves, that you wear when you play, so that you can reduce oil and clean your fret board and strings at the same time!

    posted on September 4, 2013 at 12:03 pm
  74. Scott Grove says:

    Hey Nick E.  Do you mean like these?  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ilh4uMAdss8

    posted on September 4, 2013 at 2:12 pm
  75. Scott Grove says:

    ED, Yes, it’s perfectly fine and NEEDED to take off all of your strings at once EVERY TIME you go to change them.  It’s the ONLY way to clean everything.  Anybody that tells you different is simply off their rocker.  People spending way too much time in forums and getting fed B.S. by 12 year olds and regurgitating it back out.

    posted on September 4, 2013 at 2:15 pm
  76. Nick E, says:

    Similar to those yes, Mr. Grove. but more specialized so that they don’t effect tone or anything.

    posted on September 5, 2013 at 9:26 am

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