The Guitarist’s Tool Kit
by Daniel Brooks
Whether you’re just giving your old guitar one more tweak toward perfection, or getting ready to do your first complete set up on your new instrument, there are a few essential items you should have in your tool kit. Most of these are inexpensive and well worth the investment, if you don’t already have them, and they will help you fine tune any guitar to its maximum level of performance and playability.
Screwdrivers
A set of Phillips screwdrivers. There are several standard sizes of Phillips screwdrivers, but you’ll need only three to do any work on any standard guitar. A good Craftsman #2 is the largest. It fits the neck attachment screws on a Strat or a Tele as well as the screws for a tremolo spring mounting claw. A #1 is the perfect size for the screws on any pick guard, back plate, jack plate, or truss rod cover. A #0 Phillips screwdriver fits the mounting ring screws and the height adjustment screws on a humbucker.
Allen Wrenches
A set of Allen wrenches is also necessary for many truss rod and bridge saddle adjustments. This isn’t universal to all guitars, but for those that have Allen screws incorporation into their design, they are an essential tool.
Ruler
A 6 inch ruler with 1/32" and 1/64" (0.5 mm) increments will give you considerable accuracy when fine tuning your guitar’s string and pickup height or adjusting your truss rod for a straighter neck. A good one will probably cost you between $10 and $35 and there is an inexpensive and more accurate alternative.
Feeler Gauge
A feeler gauge will give even more precise measurement, for less than ten dollars at any auto parts store. It is an organized collection of thin metal leaves, each an exact fraction of an inch thick. You combine leaves of different thicknesses to get an exact reference for any job that requires a professional level of accuracy. It requires a little bit of basic math, but it will give you a perfect reference down to one thousandth (.001) inch, the difference between a .009 and a .010 gauge guitar string.
Wire Cutters
Wire Cutters. When you’re at the hardware store looking for tools, be sure to pick up a pair of wire cutters. For 10 to 20 dollars, this is the perfect tool for trimming the ends off of new strings after you restring your guitar, and comes in handy if you ever have to work on your guitar’s electronics.
Soldering Iron
A soldering iron. This one is optional. If you are comfortable with working on your guitar’s electronics . . . and if you know what you’re doing, then a soldering iron will save you a whole lot of money whenever you replace switches, pots, capacitors and pickups. You can spend up to a hundred bucks, or even more, on a soldering iron, but there are plenty of good ones that will work perfectly on any guitar project for around $20.
Oil
A drop of 3-in-1 oil in each of your tuning machines, every now and then, will keep them happy and rust free for decades. Be careful to wipe up any excess on your guitar’s wood or finished surfaces.
So far, the tools we’ve suggested are those for which you’ll find plenty of other uses. If you’re handy, it’s a good idea to have them for those times when you just have to fix stuff around the house. But there are a few other tools that really only have a function in reference to your guitar. They may seem like luxuries, but you’ll thank yourself for buying them.
Chromatic Tuner
A good chromatic tuner will save your show. When you’re on stage with an out-of-tune guitar, in front of an audience that is just waiting for the next song, or the next band, the time it takes to find the errant string and fine tune it back to rock-star worthy perfection can seem like an eternity. A good chromatic tuner will give you a quick, precise visual reference for any tuning, standard or alternate. This not only helps you onstage, but it is also an indispensible tool for doing a professional set up on any guitar. You have to keep each string in tune for precise string tension as you adjust the truss rod, the string height, the tremolo spring tension and the intonation on your guitar, a good chromatic tuner lets you zero in quickly and accurately after every adjustment. An “expensive” tuner will find its way on your pedal board for a mere $99, and for $20 or so you can get an outstanding hand-held tuner for set ups.
String Winder
A string winder is one of the great wonders of the modern world. A simple piece of plastic that fits over the button on your guitar’s tuning peg, and a rotating handle that lets you turn a freshly-strung tuner a half dozen full rotations in just a few seconds . . . sheer freakin’ genius. A good one costs only a few dollars and often features a slot for removing bridge pins on an acoustic guitar. There ought to be an international holiday celebrating the birthday of the guy who invented the string winder.
Polishes
Finally, a jar of polish and a clean cotton cloth will keep your guitar’s finish looking shiny and new even when it’s well into its “vintage” years. I bought a jar of carnauba wax guitar polish for less than $20 more than 20 years ago. I guess I’ll have to buy another in a few years. It is not a cleaning agent, for that you need a clean cotton cloth to wipe away any fingerprints, and if, for reasons that are probably best left unspoken, your guitar has picked up a little dirt, grime, sweat, blood, fur, or unidentifiable fluids, then maybe a mild detergent solution. Fretboard conditioner can also be applied occasionally when you feel your fretboard drying out. Once your guitar is clean, dry, and serviceable, then wax on, wax off, and it’s on with the show.
Comments
Another fine list! I would suggest just a few additions: clean, all cotton cloth or sox (no fabric conditioner or dryer sheets used on them) to throughly wipe strings with after playing, and some kind of nut slot lube. I use Rene Martinez’ GraphitALL guitar lube but anything will help with any minor string-binding issues. Also, a short piece of .010 guitar string is nice to use for getting the stuff into the nut slots.
+1 on the nut lube. That stuff will really help cut down on string breakage and also help the strings to tune smoother (you won’t get that awful PING sound when the string slips in the nut). I like to use a small needle to get it in the nut slots. And remember, less is more! You don’t need to use much of the stuff.
Another great article.
3 Questions:
1. How much fretboard conditioner do you apply. And if ever applied too much (did it many years ago), what to do, wait or is there a reason / way to remove it. I.e. How long does it stay in the wood.
2. About 10 years ago i used to apply “Fast fret”....maybe not so good idea?. Is it possible that there is still some left in the wood?
2. What to do about scratching pots: contactspray (which one), high pressure gas?
Happen to have my whole stratocaster open and apart. Doing a thorough set-up.
Jazzy - for the scratchy pots (on the guitar, your amp, etc) use “DeoxIT D5”. It’s expensive at $15 or so a can, but it is “the” stuff for cleaning up pots.
JB
Great post! Learning how to do this will save me money instead of taking my guitar to go get set up elsewhere. This is a must see for any guitarist. Thank you!
Nut lube… Get some Caramex (Lip Balm) the liquidy kind in the tube and put it in a little dish with some 3 in 1 oil… little on the nut, little on the saddles little under the string trees… perfect… after you string up wipe off the excess or it gets on your hand when you palm mute and then on your strings…
I agree on the nut lube (also for saddles and string trees) - a good synthetic lube may be the most important tool. Instead of wire cutters, I use needle nose pliers as it is a more versatile tool. Another tool, which I use less often but is essential when you need it, and that is fretboard lubricant, like Guitar Honey. And please, please, please DO NOT ever put 3 in 1 oil on anything!. Use synthetic or mineral lubricants. Petroleum based oils dry up, collect dust, then turn into indescribable gunk which then clogs up your device.
I used to to take a sharp pencil and run it back and forth in the nut slots.A nice alternative is replacing the nut with graphtech replacement nuts ,which self lubricated,or for strats ,the Wilkerson roller nut .
As to conditioning , tung or lemon oil,and only a few drops .With rosewood ,check the pores and if the are visible or open,apply a few drops and let it set for 10 to fifteen minutes and if it is apparent the oil is,being absorbed ,then follow up with applications until the pores are closed.If ebony,maple ,or similar hard woods, just a drop or two will do.
I would not recommend finger ease it is a silicone based spray and works down into the fret slots usually adding a good sum to any fret job because the slots have to be cleaned.
Pots,should clean up after working them back an forth quickly ,but you can try the canned air for cleaning computer keyboards,or a drop of machine oil.Hook up the guitar guts to a small amp and after treatment ,go slowly from 0- 10.There should be no noise from the pot.If there is any,noise ,try swiping back and forth quickly until there is no crackle.If,it persists after 2 or 3 times and noise persists,replace the pot(s). Stewart- McDonald has a great selection and if you are new to soldering ,have tutorials available.
Hope this helps .
@Jazzy For your scratchy pot, there aren’t many solutions. Generally it’s the taper of the pot that is the problem. You may try injecting contact cleaner into the pot, but it is not a miracle solution. The best one being to simply replace it… Pots aren’t too expensive anyways. When you change the volume pot of a guitar, a mod I find fun for swells is to put a reverse log pot, makes the change between high volume and low volume much faster. It is not for everyone however, especially if you like to have lots of sensitivity for your overdrive.
Regarding the Feeler Gauge: would you guys suggest using that for measuring truss rod adjustments (string action)?
I’ve been considering purchasing one of Stew Mac’s Action Gauges but $19 seems a bit steep for what is essentially an (albeit, highly accurate & precision machined) piece of stainless steel. Thoughts?
I got feeler gauges from AutoZone for probably 3 bucks. I love StewMac but not enough to just hand them money !
Another small item - a pencil to rub a tiny bit of graphite into the string slots on the nut so that they will slide more easily during/after bends or trem bar action. I always have a pencil in my toolkit.
I use a graphite powder on the guitar nut as it isn’t affected by temperature as much as an oil based lube.
One essential I keep is a small mill file kit. These are very finely grooved and ground steel files, in there own rollup plastic case. Picked them up at a discount tool store for $6. Anyway, they work great for nut slots, dressing fret ends, taking that little sharp end off an adjustment srew end, etc.
If you’re carefull, you can take a slight fret buzz out with a couple of swipes, and the fret stays smooth.
Another guy mentioned having used GHS Fast Fret, but I’m surprised it isn’t on your list. The stuff is fantastic! It’s like the icing on the cake, as far as cleaned up / fine tuned guitar goes.
Agree with Dman & StephenS…. I’ve been using the trick with a pencil in the nut slots since I was in college. Not necessary on some instruments, but if you’re finding problems when you tune your guitar where the string’s tension is getting ‘stuck’ or ‘hung up’ between the nut and the tuning peg, a little pencil graphite costs next to nothing and works like a champ. Regarding using oils in the gear boxes of your tuners, have heard that’s not a good idea. Have read that oils will soak into the end grain of the wood exposed where the hole is drilled through the peg head and cause your peg head wood to discolor or worse (swell or crack). Can’t remember where I read this but it makes sense. I believe the safe alternative is to use a graphite powder since it won’t soak into the wood. On scratchy pots, that’s typically just the metal film ‘strip’ inside the pot has oxidized over the years, which is typical if the pot doesn’t get turned regularly. A friend of mine back in the 70’s had an old Carvin amp that had been in storage for years in a humid environment and when he got it all the pots were scratchy as heck. He patiently spun the knobs back/forth hundreds of times each until the scratching went away. Some contact cleaner would probably be easier.. or a combination of the cleaner and this ‘exercising’ should do the trick.
Nah, ya got it all wrong… here, the Nuge will set ya straight…
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxKjcIU6fo0
I use the short end of an Allen wrench, flat to flat, to help me measure string height on my basses. It can be hard to see the graduations on a ruler. I have also used WD-40 on a rag to clean strings, Put it on a rag, wrap the rag around the string and run it up and down the string.
I use a sharpened pencil to apply pencil lead (graphite} to nut slots, like others here have mentioned.
Always use exactly the right wrench on the truss rod. Make sure it’s seated on the rod end firmly before turning. Be extra sure to use the right size to avoid rounding off the hex.
I encourage everyone to learn how to do basic set-up and intonation. (if you are capable).
“Want your guitar to play like a world-class instrument?”
Then hire a World Class Luthier or buy a World Class set of tools and, learn how to use them. Because these tools, while useful, are not going to get you there. Very misleading tag line to attract people to this article.
String winders are mostly unnecessary except maybe for nylon string instruments and can mar headstocks. And board oil is of dubious benefit, except perhaps on ebony in arid climes.
I find that most of the tricks listed work well. As for the pencil ? It’s way too messy for me. When I clean my fret board dunlop #01. Then condition it with #02.(lemon oil) I use a q-tip with the conditioner for the nut slots and the bridge. It works well and doesn’t get all messy. As far as the string winder ? Not only a big waste of time but a waste of money. Just wrap the string around the post a few times and then thread the string through the hole. Pull on the string to take out the slack and a couple of turns of the tuner and your done. Less wear on your tuner gears too. Randy’s Idea about WD-40 works great on the strings. Not only is it a solvent but its a lube and protects from finger acids and salts. Always wipe with a dry cloth after though. A fine file works wonders for a buzzing fret. just don’t over file. And last but not least ! ALWAYS use the right tool for the job. Loose and sloppy fitting tools will always make your guitar look like a hack job. Rock on
You can also get fine graphite powder at yer favorite hardware store in the lock set section. It is used to lube doorknobs & locks instead of budweiser & hair oil.
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I would not put any of those solvents on my fretboard, This is an advertisement of products ,but it would not show you how to do a set up, And I play acoustic, It is a different game. It’s also hard to find a good guitar tech. The last set up someone did for me, I gave them the exact specs I wanted for hi bass string and hi treble string , I wrote down a very specific list of numbers for the set up , I had heard this guy was great, gave him a brand new saddle. I was excited to pic it up, but it was nowhere close to what I wanted. He had tried to see how lo he could make the set up. Bluegrass players don’t care for that , I took it home and put the old saddle in it with a spacer. The owner was on vacation,when he came back, I called to complain about the set up, I had left messages for the cashier guy to have him call me when he got back, the guitar tech would not not call me. The owner said, I can’t help you, you should have left it it if you did not like the set up. I only had one guitar, The tech was only in once or twice a week, I had bought 3 guitars from the shop, Haven’t been back since.
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