Set Up Guide: Pickup Height

March 14, 2013

by Daniel Brooks

You can fine tune the basic tone and output of your guitar by adjusting the height of each of your pickups. It sounds like a simple thing, but any adjustment of any part of your guitar can have a considerable affect on your sound, so it’s good to keep a few realities in mind as you tweak your way toward tonal perfection.

Typically, a pickup raised higher to be closer to the strings will deliver a higher output with a more pronounced and defined high end than one positioned lower. But you will not necessarily maximize your sound by just setting the pickups as high as they’ll go. In fact, a higher setting can diminish, if not ruin, an otherwise outstanding guitar tone in a few different ways.

Your pickups and strings work according to their physical proximity to one another. As the strings vibrate, they move a fraction of an inch closer and further away from the pickups, hundreds or thousands of times per second, disrupting the pickup’s magnetic field. Each disruption induces a flow of electrons in the copper wire wound around the magnets in your pickups. The frequencies and amplitudes of that flow will change according to the pattern of disruptions, creating an amplifiable current that corresponds to the vibration of the strings. The magnetic field is stronger closer to the magnets, and as you bring the magnets and the vibrating string closer together, the disruption of the stronger part of the field induces a stronger current, creating more power for the higher-energy treble frequencies and greater volume overall.

But the interaction works both ways. A too-strong magnetic field will exert a subtle physical pull on the string that will reduce the string’s vibration and greatly shorten your sustain. Additionally, the misadjusted pickup will create a pull at only one point on the length of the string, creating false harmonic nodes that will make most of the notes on your fretboard sound slightly out-of-tune, no matter how you play them. This effect is much more pronounced with misadjusted neck pickups.

As the interaction between string and pickup becomes stronger, it exerts a much greater influence on your sound. The acoustic qualities of your guitar’s wood, hardware, and design play a diminished role in shaping your tone and timbre. It might not matter if you’re playing very loud and heavily processed, but if you’ve spent a lot of money on your dream guitar, you probably want it to make a difference in your tone. Adjust your pickups back from the strings a bit to hear your guitar. You might notice a slight drop in the output and a slightly darker tone, but if you have a good amp, or two, you can trust it to deliver plenty of volume with all of the well-developed treble you need to sound good.

Of course, you don’t want to go too far in the other direction. If your pickup is adjusted too low, you will end up amplifying a lot of noise along with your signal, especially if you’re using single coil pickups. As with all things, balance is the key to getting it right.

So, what is the optimum height for your pickups? Well, that depends on the pickup, its position on your guitar, and what you want it to do. Fender, Gibson and all of the aftermarket pickup manufacturers make a wide variety of different models with very different characteristics. Fender Lace Sensors, for example, exert no magnetic pull and can be adjusted as close to your strings as you like. The Texas Specials and Noiseless Series have a higher Gauss and work best when adjusted a good .125” away from the string.
A string vibrates with much more or less amplitude at different points along its length. The point of its maximum amplitude will vary according to where it is plucked, moving up and down the string in a pattern that requires some pretty serious math to describe accurately. For the sake of this article, let’s just say its maximum is closer to its halfway point and at its minimum is at the ends, at the bridge and at the fret or, if it’s an open string, at the nut. Because of this, you’ll probably want to adjust your bridge pickup higher than your neck pickup to be closer to the strings. You’ll also probably want to adjust the treble end of each pickup slightly higher. The thinner strings are physically further away from the pickup and, with less vibrating mass, have a slightly lesser influence on the pickup’s magnetic field. 
To adjust the pickup height accurately, fret the high E and low E strings at the highest fret. Then measure the distance between the bottom of each string and the top of the magnetic pole piece beneath it. You can measure the gap using a precision 6 inch metal ruler with markings for 64ths of an inch, or a feeler gauge, for maximum accuracy.

For guitars with humbuckers, Gibson recommends a gap of 3/32nds of an inch, or .093” between the low E string and the top of the pole piece, and 2/32nds, or .0625” between the high E and the top. When I set up my Les Paul, I adjusted the neck pickup as low as it will go, flush with the mounting ring, and the bridge pickup according to their specifications. It sounds great.

Fender’s recommendations are a bit more specialized. For your reference, I’ve included their recommended heights for a variety of their single-coil pickups. You’ll notice there is no provision for each pickup position, but if you adjust each pickup to the high and low E strings fretted as high up the neck as possible, it will create a natural gradation that will work at every point on the fretboard. 
As with all set up adjustments, these are merely guidelines that you can modify according to your personal preferences. Listen to your pickups when you play, keep a #1 Phillips screwdriver within reach, and feel free to tweak your pickup heights until you get it exactly where you want it.

                                                Bass Side              Treble Side
Texas Specials                     8/64” (.125)           6/64” (.093)
Noiseless Series                       8/64” (.125)           6/64” (.093)
Vintage Style                         6/64” (.093)           5/64” (.078)
Standard Single Coil           5/64” (.078)           4/64” (.0625)


  1. Abbacus says:

    Well, no comment.   

    posted on March 14, 2013 at 11:34 am
  2. Cam Shuttleworth says:

    Do these heights apply to bass as well?

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 2:56 am
  3. Igor Vihnanek says:

    Nice to see a set up guide here, a lot of people fumble around trying to find a credible source for guitar set up and stumble on some pretty weird sites/“experts”.. I’ve actually heard of a guy who started a forum topic on guitar set up and made half the people believe the only way to do a proper string/pickup height set up is by using nut shimms and raising the pickups all the way cause “it’s a lie it can ruin the sound, you get the FULL sound of a pickup this way, it’s what the manufacturers don’t want you to know” :/

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 2:58 am
  4. Derk Berklins says:

    What about p90’s—would you qualify them as Gibson humbuckers when setting heights, or are they in a league of their own like Fender singles?  Thanks!

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 3:10 am
  5. David Fellows says:

    My fav. guitar has “1959” bustbuckers (I think1and2) the bass pup is pretty hot and to get a good mix, so that the treble pup can ring out I have the teble pup set about the way Gibson recomeds But the bass pup is much lower than they recomend.Unless you have a junior or aany guitar with one pup. I think you have to play around with the height as the magnetic feild from you neck pup really affects the bridge and if you have oldshool pup that are not alway wound the same.playing with individual poles can hurt eather The tone comming out of your axe should be what you like and there’s no real good stock answer for that.

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 3:13 am
  6. Gimelgort says:

    It’s not rocket science. Get yourself a ruler, start with factory spec, play and LISTEN. Tweak, and Listen. Rinse and repeat as necessary. It may be helpful to go too far in either direction just to get a sonic sense of what’s going on.

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 3:20 am
  7. Alfred Thompson says:

    Thank-You for this!!!!!!!

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 3:23 am
  8. Scott Abbe says:

    Where does G&L say to adjust their MFD pickups? These have strong magnets. I have the ASAT Classis S that is in your demo video(copper). I think the pickups were set a little too high, so I lowered them a bit, but don’t know if they are close to what the factory recommends.


    posted on March 15, 2013 at 3:30 am
  9. Theo says:

    How do Lace Sensors work if you don’t have to worry about magnetic pull?

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 3:39 am
  10. Ivan says:

    which approximates the Hot Rails or Hum Canceling type?

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 3:45 am
  11. Funk E says:

    P90s, like Gibson humbuckers, have the magnets underneath the coil with screw pole pieces extending past the coil to the top of the bobbin. However, the P90 bobbin itself is thinner ( meaning not as tall ) than PAF bobbins, so the magnets are naturally closer to the strings. I’d recommend starting at 1/8” an the low E side, and 3/34” on the high E side. From there use your ears to judge the tone, sustain and string balance as you move each side up or down. Use the pole screws for fine adjusting each strings volume after the initial pickup height adjustment. P90s, like PAF type humbuckers, aren’t too picky about adjustment, but there is a sweet spot. Many P90 players, like Leslie West, like some ” air ” between the strings and the pickup. Real Fender style single coils use slug magnets for the pole pieces. Bringing them too close to the strings creates a strong pull on the strings which kills the sustain and tone. The famous strat low E wobble is caused by this. Use the starting points Mr. Brooks listed above and, if anything, go a little lower if needed, especially on the neck pickup.

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 3:46 am
  12. Mike says:

    What’s the color name of the finish on the strat in the picture? It looks like Turquois; not quite Sonic Blue or Seafoam Green?  Thanks for the tone tips!

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 3:48 am
  13. Bob Thomson says:

    Stupid question. I’ve got an American deluxe strat with noiseless pickups. Each pickups pole pieces are at different heights like they are staggered. Are these still measured the same way?

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 4:03 am
  14. Francesco D'Andrea says:

    Great article, very helpful! Only thing is that many readers like me are from Europe, would it be possible to add measures in millimiters and centimeters, in future articles?
    Thanks anyway for the nice reading!

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 4:10 am
  15. John Heinz says:

    The first time I saw anything concerning pickup height was when I bought my first DiMarzio X2N, and in the instructions it warned about bringing the pickup too close to the strings, as the pickups have a much stronger magnetic field than most pickups, and especially on the treble side you could have magnetic dampening of the string vibrations.
    That being said, while it would be nice to have a reference of manufacturers recommended pickup heights, it really does come down to personal taste. Stew-Mac has a listing of major stars set ups that includes string heights at the pickups, and these performers have widely different preferred setups.  Some have more distance for a mellower tone or greater clarity. I was surprised to see that Jeff Beck’s set up has the bass string pole pieces “touching”. Check it out at

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 4:18 am
  16. Ron says:

    the color of the guitar is offically called Daphne Blue and it is the color of a 57 and 62 reissue Fender Strat.  You can go on line and find sites that explain how Lace Sensors works much different from regular pick ups. I didn’t like the sound of Lace Sensors. With pick ups about 2/32” ( 1/16” ) for the bridge pick up for the high E pole piece and the bottom of the high E string when pressing down the string at the last fret is a good starting point. For the low E string 3/32 ” ( 6/64 ) ( which is one and a half sixteenths of an inch ” is a good starting point. You shouldn’t have to have your pick ups any closer than that. You can try the pick ups slightly closer and slightly farther away and listen if you notice a difference. Some pick ups with stronger magnets like ceramic or Samarium Cobalt or large diameter pole pieces might need the have the pick ups farther away from the strings with the low E string more like 1/8”  gap between the bottom of the string and top of the pole piece with the string pressed down at the highest fret.

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 4:54 am
  17. Steve says:

    Just a thought - most people under the age of 40, particularly outside the US, use the metric system. I’ll swap between the two but using imperial measurements for very fine tolerances is something best left to the dark ages. 6/64ths?...let’s go with approx. 2.5mm

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 5:09 am
  18. Don says:

    Nice information. :) Just a note that might seem obvious but wasn’t mentioned: Pickup hight is probably the last thing you should do during a set-up, because adjusting your truss rod or bridge changes the string hight above the pickup. :)

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 5:24 am
  19. Daniel Brooks says:

    Sorry about my metric insensitivity. It won’t happen again.

    4/64” =.0625” =1.58mm
    5/64” =.078” = 1.98mm
    6/64” =.093” = 2.36mm
    8/64” = .125” = 3.17mm

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 7:59 am
  20. David says:

    This really only applies to Fender type pickups with alnico rod magnets. Get them too close to the strings and they will exert too much pull, and you get wolf tones, also known as “stratitus.”

    You can adjust pickups with steel poles being charged by magnets much closer to the strings.

    The rule is the sensitivity of the pickup diminishes with the square of the distance when you move them farther from the strings.

    @Steve, you are probably playing a guitar built in the US using Imperial systems right? So much for the dark ages. I use mm too, but things haven’t changed here since the metric system was introduced back in the 70s. So most of the screws and parts in guitar are Imperial, and not metric.

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 8:13 am
  21. stringbender53 says:

    Good info overall and the measurements are definitely a starting point. Something I would add from my guitar tech experience is the best way to adjust “fixed polepiece” pickups such as “Vintage” & “Texas Specials” types,etc. is to first set the pickups at the suggested approximate heights.Then plug the guitar in, running it through your favorite overdrive/distortion unit set where you normally run it, and play the low and high “E” octive notes at the 12th fret individually. If the pickup is set too high, you should notice a real loss of sustain and nasty sounding overtones/ghost harmonics that will disappear as you lower that side of the pickup (the overdrive/distortion added gain helps act as an “accentuator”). If not, raise the pickup until you do, then back it down again and find the sweet spot where they disappear. On Strats, I’ll normally do the low E on all three pickups first (starting at the neck and ending at the bridge), then do the same adjustments on the High E side. When done you’ll probably notice all three will be slanted: lower on the low E side and higher on the high E side and if you wish to record the height’s, this is a good time to do it. If, by chance, you’re using single coils with “individually adjustable” polepieces, I’d suggest checking information available on polepiece adjustment (Dan Earlewine’s excellent “Guitar Repair” book covers this) and adjust the polepieces on all pickups first, THEN adjust pickup height. Also, I don’t know why there always seems to be a “fractional/metric measurement” setting controversy, as finding a good 6” Stainless pocket ruler marked in 1/64” OR a Metric one ISN’T that hard (I have both!). Any decent hardware store should have ‘em and they usually cost under or around $5.00, so pick whichever you prefer, go for it, and have fun with it (it’s really not rocket science)!

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 9:07 am
  22. loudnclear says:

    Great article.  Just the fact that you guys are bringing pick up height to your audience’s attention is great in itself, but the attention to detail in this article is very much appreciated.  I adjusted my pick up heights by ear and came to the same conclusions you guys came to.  Thanks!

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 9:20 am
  23. DBA says:

    Thanks for one of the best articles on string height I’ve come accross.  It seems simple but the tone aspects are tremendous.  Since guitars are very personal - everyone has to find what works for their ears. My technique is to capo as high as I can on the fingerboard and then bring the pickups within .0625’. I then undo the capo - plug into a clean amp setting and start adjusting each pickup lowering based on string slap, overtones/blooming, clarity and balance between the 2 pickups.  You’ll know when its right to your ear - afterwards take a few measurements jot them down and throw them in our case.  Your good to go.  This works for any pickup setup and your own personal taste.  As to metric - ?  In the end its all the same - so, use whatever measuring gauge floats your boat.

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 11:14 am
  24. Freddie says:

    How bout ibanez guitar??? Why you americans always forget this one great axe

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 1:32 pm
  25. David says:

    Freddie, I have a great Ibanez SR-887LE bass I bought new in 1987. :)

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 1:48 pm
  26. Axel says:

    I’d also be interested in the factory settings of a G&L Legacy. I tried the Fender recommendation for vintage style pickups and - for my taste - it’s really no good (lack of high end sustain). So it’s roughly back to what it was before but I’d still like to know how they are set up before they leave the factory.

    posted on March 15, 2013 at 9:29 pm
  27. Ducky says:

    Les paul with “active” pickups. What do I do?  I would imagine there is extra pull from the magnets. Any info or advise would be appreciated.  Novice in the house.

    posted on March 16, 2013 at 10:26 pm
  28. David Fellows says:

    @ Freddie I have two Ibanezs and I wish I could forget them.hahahah I’ve dune everything I could to make them sound Like a Les paul when I should have just got another Les Paul.hahaha There great for people that love high gain though.@ Ducky Why do you have a Paul with actives in it?hahahhaa As far as I know the only thing differant in actives is the pots whereas actives use 25K pots passives use 500K the set up for most hum going to be in the same ball park.but what I said was play with it a little move them up and down a little and see what you like.The one good thing about actives is they are usualy ballanced better and are more consisent.but when seeking your tone good luck To me it is a ever changing life long chase.God bless Ps I say these things in fun and do not wish to badmouth anybodys stuff.

    posted on March 16, 2013 at 11:47 pm
  29. Chad Campbell says:

    Informative! Thank you!

    posted on March 18, 2013 at 1:34 am
  30. Derek Williams says:

    What about with Active pups?  THANKS!!!

    posted on March 18, 2013 at 10:26 am
  31. Mario Bohorquez says:

    Well: If too close decreases sustain and creates “false” notes and too low muddies and lowers the output then go for the middle to have a balanced volume and magnetism. (Btw, Imperial measurements should be discarded)

    posted on March 19, 2013 at 12:11 pm
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  33. Sven says:

    Funny you never see us folks using United States customary units tellin ya you have to use them. Get over it, if us “dumb Americans” can take a few seconds and sort out the conversion it should be quite easy for to y’all do the same.  Well….maybe not…lol                                                  

    Best way to set pickups up
    1. crank em all the way down till they’re flush with the pick guard (or mounting ring)
    2. in one turn increments adjust them upwards playing all strings open, at the 12th fret, harmonics at 12th and fret at the highest pickup. If it sounds like crap adjust and repeat until it sounds right. No measuring required.  Besides Ideal for one player might very well sound like **** to another, so there is no sure fire guide to perfect sound for every player or even every axe. No two guitars even if they left the assembly line right next to each other and were set up identically sound exactly alike.

    Type and gauge of string will change where “ideal” lies as well, Heavier stings swing farther, have more mass, and are under more tension. They also more significantly effect a pickups magnetic field but are effected less by the pull from the pickup.

    posted on March 23, 2013 at 6:26 am
  34. James P says:

    I like all these people complaining about not having offered the measurements in metric.  This is an American company reporting on setting up American-made guitars.  You’re already on the internet, look up the conversions yourselves, you wankers.

    posted on March 23, 2013 at 7:09 am
  35. John says:

    I have a Mexi-Strat Fender. Assuming all Fender Strats are the same, which style pick-ups are on them, or are they different?

    posted on March 23, 2013 at 7:14 am
  36. Mario Bohorquez says:

    Setting up “American made guitars” really James P???? Are you sure?? Imperial measurements are unpractical and limited to very few areas of the world. GROW UP!! The world is a big place, USA is not the center of the Universe, prick.

    posted on March 23, 2013 at 8:00 am
  37. David says:

    Mario, name calling is childish, and you are telling people to grow up? Maybe we should all speak the same language too right?  What’s your native tongue? It’s not English, otherwise you would have said “impractical”.

    Yes, the world is a big place. You seem to be forgetting that and are implying we should all do things your way. Nonetheless, many products in the US use imperial threads and screw sizes. That’s not going to change any time soon. If ever. I have no problem using both metric and imperial, so why do you? Is your brain that limited that you can’t use two systems? All our rulers here have both metric and imperial. And conversion is unnecessary, since they don’t mix. .0625” is close to 1.5mm, but it’s not. Often measuring things in mm is better, but sometimes it’s not.

    Want to buy some pickups? They are usually always in imperial sizes, like 1.5” x 2.57” for a humbucker. You know why? Because they were designed based on 50 year old American guitars. Since most guitar companies can’t break the Gibson/Fender clone habit, you will see imperial sizes for guitar for the next 50 years.

    Maybe you should stick to guitars made in your country, which ever that might be. I have no such limitations. I know how to use two systems.

    And look, I did not resort to name calling.

    posted on March 23, 2013 at 8:57 am
  38. Mario Bohorquez says:

    Name calling is childish?? Then what are names for? Proudly my native language is not English, I’d like to see you speaking other languages and using foreign systems to see how good you actually are. US North Americans (not all) are the ones who think that we should do all things your way, in fact the Fender Stratocaster despite being very beautiful and iconic has a lot of design flaws, as it’s own creator would later recognize.
    Measuring in metric system will always be better, the only reason you still use it is because you are to proud to change it.

    Did you know that there are companies in other countries of the world manufacturing modern and advanced designs (and materials) ?? Instead of redoing Fender and Gibson clones like almost everyone does in the US!!

    I just don’t get your “names” comment?? You just mentioned my name.

    And yes, there is a world outsed the US, and it’s great!!!!

    posted on March 23, 2013 at 9:57 am
  39. Mario Bohorquez says:

    And yes, there is a world outside the US, and it’s great!!!!

    posted on March 23, 2013 at 9:58 am
  40. David says:

    Mario, do you think calling someone a “prick” is ok?  That’s what I’m referring to when I say “name calling”. That’s childish. Your English seems good enough to figure that out. I’ll say it in simple English. Don’t act like an ass. Should I call you a “douche bag” instead?

    I’m a guitar maker myself, and I also make pickups. I sell my pickups all over the world. My instruments don’t look like Fender and Gibson, but guess what? Most companies use pickups that look like Fender or Gibson pickups. If a guitar has humbuckers, they are clones of Gibson pickups. It doesn’t matter if they are wound differently. Same thing if a guitar, or bass, is using Fender style pickups. All those pickups will be in US Common units (not really Imperial). It doesn’t matter where the guitar was made. That’s because they were invented here.

    Now explain why measuring in metric is *always* better. Be intelligent about it. Give me a technical answer. How are millimeters better than 100ths of a inch?  (oh yeah, guitar strings are also in inches). See I have rulers and even digital calipers that do both. And I use both. I’ve been using inches since I was a kid, before we had the metric system here.

    Now I use metric quite a lot every day. If you go on my website, all the pickup dimensions are listed in mm. But I don’t use it for everything. Because of a lot of screw hardware commonly used on pickups is not metric. Guitar scale lengths were originally in inches. Lumber is in inches. Sure, I can convert them, but why bother. I know how to use both.

    I also know how to measure in picas and points. That’s important in the graphics field. And those are international standards. So is the US customary inch, which is 25.4 mm.

    Now as far as the rest of the world, have YOU ever been anywhere else? I’ve traveled to quite a few other countries, how about you? Languages? My wife speaks English, Spanish and Italian. She’s also been to about 10 different countries, including Russia. I’m mainly fluent in English, but I speak a little Italian. You act like a 13 year old. Get over yourself. Be tolerant of other people in the word and their customs, including common measuring units.

    You are reading the blog of a US company. Why not respect that.

    posted on March 23, 2013 at 11:43 am
  41. Mario Bohorquez says:

    Hey David, that James P guy that you defend was the one who started it all, referring to us foreigners as “wankers”. Isn’t that your “name calling”?

    posted on March 24, 2013 at 4:01 am
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  44. Igor Vihnanek says:

    Can’t believe I came for a set-up guide and came back to a pissing contest about metric/imperial. Good god, is there any other insignificant piece of crap we can fight over? The way we breathe? I’m from Croatia and imperial units are a nightmare for me (I mean, 6/64 of something? can’t even imagine that:D ) and that’s why I use a CALC U LAT OR! Or a conversion table, or a Stew-Mac ruler with both blaa blaa.. 6/64? Oh, well, that’s 25,4mm/64x6 = wow, about 2,38mm, I almost died! You can’t tell me you’re willing and able to tinker round the guitar but you can’t switch back an forth between imperial and metric using elementary school math? Although, I must say using “cups” in recipes is what you’ll burn in hell for :D :P

    posted on March 24, 2013 at 8:42 am
  45. Casey Baldwin says:

    Well I bought a no name strat. Modified it to a single no name hum bucker .It had a chrome cover that I took off.The so called adjustable posts don’t adjust so they stick way up from the nonadjustable .Do I adjust the height to those posts or get the dremal out and cut them off so they are even? Its a cheep pickup so wouldn’t hert my feelings .The tone isn’t worth a crap as is because of the 3\32 difference between the 2 coils.What do You think I should do?

    posted on March 24, 2013 at 9:57 am
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